Berkut Kit

uhhh ..... more like this:

 

yes, that is a linear slide rule. My point is that this is a slide rule too:

 

AFAIK, its pretty standard to teach all pilots how to use one. Thus, basically all pilots know how to use a slide rule, or at least they were taught how to.

hmmmmmmmmm ........... I don't know.

Waiter, what do you think? (just messing with ya!)

Has anyone heard anything more about the Honda engine?

 

Tony

I don't research anything that has pistons.

I don't research anything that has pistons.

Big-T

 

Yeah, I like those rotary's too.

I'm wondering do you remember layup schedule for the Berkut fuselage or is that possible to find this info in the Berkut drawings because I've not bought these drawings yet (so I'm not sure).

Mak

The layup schedules are not in the drawings. I'll share what I recall. There wasn't any real engineering done - basically, we started with the Long EZ sequences and made them all stronger and lighter with better materials and vacuum bagging.

 

The basic sequence for the fuselage was 1 ply 7715 lengthwise, 1 ply DB090, 5 lb 3/8 core, and the same on the inside. There were reenforcements around the aft lip (2 extra 7725 plies), the longeron depressions( 2 extra 7725 plies), and the nose bumper (5 tapered plies 7725). There were 2 plies of Kevlar down the centerline in the aft half, under the outer glass. The rollover got 3 extra plies of DB090 both inside and outside.

 

We learned to make all the laminates symmetrical, or the parts would warp as soon as they came out of the molds.

The layup schedules are not in the drawings. I'll share what I recall. There wasn't any real engineering done - basically, we started with the Long EZ sequences and made them all stronger and lighter with better materials and vacuum bagging.

 

The basic sequence for the fuselage was 1 ply 7715 lengthwise, 1 ply DB090, 5 lb 3/8 core, and the same on the inside. There were reenforcements around the aft lip (2 extra 7725 plies), the longeron depressions( 2 extra 7725 plies), and the nose bumper (5 tapered plies 7725). There were 2 plies of Kevlar down the centerline in the aft half, under the outer glass. The rollover got 3 extra plies of DB090 both inside and outside.

 

We learned to make all the laminates symmetrical, or the parts would warp as soon as they came out of the molds.

Richard Thank You very much for these information I really appreciate it. Thanks

 

Mak

I had a little time before the festivities started today. I did the outboard wing attach layup. Here are the pics.

 

Pic 1) I layed up one ply of bid over the aluminum plug. I also made a small flox corner

Pic 2) I grit blasted the bl23 pads and immediately dipped them in epoxy.

Pic 3) Here is the lay up

 

3 plies carbon fiber spar cap tape

one ply of bid (to protect the aluminum)

Aluminum pads grit blasted and floxed into place

one ply of bid over the entier layup

 

Tony

I'm prepping the aluminum plates for tomorrows layup. I didn't realy want to change the angle on the mill to cut at fourty five degrees, so I simply used a carbide router bit to do the jod. I finished it all up with a radius bit for the edge facing the shear web on the spar. Per plans

 

Pic 1) Here is the router bit in the mill spindle. This is just a standard 45 carbide bit. They cut very nicely.

Pic 2) Here is the radius tool I used to radius one of the four edges on the aluminum plate. the rest of the edges on the plate where cut at 45 deg.

I had some time today to finish the layups on the spar attach points.

 

Pic 1) This is the inboard attach plate. The layup is identical to the outer attach points. (previous post). I'll trim the layup at the red line above the lip

Pic 2) Outer attach point layup. Same as the other side.

 

 

When these layups cure, I'll flip the spar over and do the outer spar attach layup. The outer layups are a little different than the inner spar layups. You can see the pilot holes that where predrilled thru the glass layup. When the outer layups are complete, I'll jig the spar to the drill press, and drill the pilot hole the rest of the way thru the attach points.

 

Tony

Beautiful workmanship on those hardpoints!

Beautiful workmanship on those hardpoints!

Thanks Steve. A little time consuming but well worth it.

 

Tony

I started the outer spar attach point layups today. These layups seemed to take a bit longer to perform than the inner layups. I was able to complete the two inboard outer attach points. I'm unable to do the outboard layups until tomorrow. It's just getting to cold out in the garage. The spar will have to spend the night in the laundry room:D O.K on to the pictures.

 

Pic 1) With the radius router bit chucked up in the mill. I fabricated the aluminum plates for the inboard outer attach point.

 

Pic 2) Not the greatest picture. You can see the aluminum plate surrounded by flox. The plate and flox are covered with one ply of bid four inches wide. lapping one inch onto the spar cap front and back

 

Pic 3) Three plys of spar cap tape are applied over the aluminum and fiberglass layup. Each piece of spar cap tape is cut a half inch shorter than the last, so the ends will taper in a nice transition to the upper spar cap

 

Pic 4) Once the three plys of carbon are layed up. One ply of fiberglass is applied over the carbon. Once again lapping one inch onto the spar cap front and back. This ply is to insulate the aluminum bushing that will later be pressed into the spar.

 

Pic 5) Here is the entier layup finished. The other side is identical to this.

 

 

Tony

This was the last thing I wanted to do before I went to bed. I installed the conduit. The conduit I made a few weeks ago was O.K. but I wanted to make something that didn't need plastic fittings. The problem with the first conduit was the wall thickness was very thin and I couldn't bend it very well without it crimping. I bought some more shower rod from home depot and this time I filled it with the sand from my blasting cabinet and was able to bend the tube with out it crimping. BTW that aluminum shower rod has a very thin .025 wall thickness. I had to bend it very slowly and use a fairly large radius about 3"in.

 

Here are the pics.

 

Pic 1) I used a popsicle stick to radius the micro around the counduit. Once this drys I'll go back and sand any excess micro and make it nice and pretty.

 

Pic 2) Here is a shot of the spar with the new conduit. A sharp contrast from when I got it 4 months ago.

Pic 2) Here is a shot of the spar with the new conduit. A sharp contrast from when I got it 4 months ago.

Can you say 'Understatement'?

Looking MUCH improved Tony. This kit is in the right hands now.

Thanks T.

 

BTW how is your project coming along? I don't know if you have seen the videos. Go to youtube, in the search bar type in "4 rotor madness"

Holy S#!@.

these cars with four rotor rotarys are unbelievable.

 

Tony

BTW how is your project coming along?

It's been hard to see any measurable progress since it got cold. I have a basement under my garage (the bunker) and have moved my operation into there. I've been gluing 2x4s to the ceiling and have been putting foam between them for insulation. I also ran some new 20 amp circuts in there to handle the 2 quartz heaters I hung from the ceiling and fired it all up Tuesday and it just doesn't seem to be getting the job done heat wise.

 

So last night I went out and bought 2 electric blankets which should work fine in the long run. So I'm back to skinning my canard.

 

In the meantime, I got my pitch trim (Berkut plans method) all put together. I've also ordered a PLC to start on my Glass Panel (Al Wick style.) I will still be getting a BM (or equivalent) but I really like what Al has done with his to improve the safety of the aircraft.

 

Bottom line ..... I'll be pumping epoxy this weekend.

Bottom line ..... I'll be pumping epoxy this weekend.

Big-T sounds like alot of fun. Keep us posted.

 

O.k. Here is what I was able to do today. I wanted to give myself the best chance at drilling my wings correctly the first time. To do this you have to really start with a good pilot hole. In order to make a good pilot hole you need a realy big drill press. I just happen to have one of those Here we go.

 

Pic 1) The first thing I had to do was level the spar area to be drilled. I did this with the help of these handy little stands. I bought these from harbor freight a few months back.

 

Pic 2) Once the spar is leveled, it's clamped to the drill press base.

 

Pic 3) I thought this would've been a good picture just to see how flat the spar was sitting on the table. BTW I indicated the table to the drill spindle a few days ago. Something you definately want to do if you have a press that has a rotatable base.

 

Pic 4) Just to make sure that everything was good to go. I threw a level on the aluminum plate. Time to drill the hole.

 

Pic 5) I mean this with all honesty. I drew the red line prior to drilling the pilot holes. When I turned the spar over to check the holes allignment. I was very happy to see the holes lined up perfectly. Just a quick note here, look how far off the original holes where.

 

Next post.

 

Tony

Pic 6) This is the other side of the spar again the line was drawn prior to drilling and the holes are right down the center.

 

Pic 7) This is the inboard pilot hole. Not much to see here moving on.

 

Pic 8) This is the outboard aluminum plate. I screwed up earlier when I cut the original plates to short. These plates where cut from 2024 aluminum flat stock. Well because I don't want to wait to get more. I milled out two new plates out of 7075 flat stock. I have to fit the new plates to the spar, I cut them longer than stock. Once that is done I'll start the layup.

 

Tony

Today

 

I was able to finish up the last bit of layups on the spar attach points.

 

Pic 1) Outer attach point

 

Aluminum

1 ply of bid

3 plys of spar cap tape

1 ply of bid

 

Pic 2) I did this the other night during inboard layup. I went back and read the plans "again" to make sure everything was correct. I realized that the layup didn't go all the way around the spar. The layup stops about three quarters of the way down the shear web. I confirmed this as well by watching one of the wing videos. Luckily the resin was partially cured and I was able to knife trim it back to where it should be. I'll sand off any excess resin and flox. It will be as though it never happened:thumbsup:

Finally!!

 

I had some time today to start the spar close out. Not real exciting for pics but you'll be able to see how this was suppose to be done initially. Here we go.

 

 

Pic 1) I sanded the back of the spar face.

 

Pic 2) I marked one inch inboard from the edge.

 

Pic 3) This is the first ply of bid. I didn't cut the glass along the bias because it would've used to much. This is not a load bearing layup. It's just to seal the spar from fuel

 

Pic 4) Secound ply of bid

 

Pic 5) It's hard to see but I raised the spar face off of the table slightly by sliding a 1x2 underneath it. Now I have to wait for the layup to partially cure. I'll then flip the spar face over and do the layup on the front side of the face this will be the final close out layup.

Really shaping up nicely Tony. Be great to have another Berkut in the air, keep up the great restoration project.

 

Jack

E Racer 113

Really shaping up nicely Tony. Be great to have another Berkut in the air, keep up the great restoration project.

Thanks Jack

 

I hope to be on the gear at the end of the month. I have some realy good pics of the spar closeout. I'm at work currently:sad: and will have to post them later tonight.

 

Tony

Tony-

 

Wow man, the last few updates look awesome. Will you be naming your Berkut Lazarus, or perhaps the Phoenix?

 

I'm at work currently:sad: and will have to post them later tonight.

Today? Bummer. Thankfully I'm off. Good thing too...the wife and I didn't come home until roughly dawn. Freakin snowstorms....

Wow man, the last few updates look awesome. Will you be naming your Berkut Lazarus, or perhaps the Phoenix?

I like that Dave. I was thinking Morpheus.

 

Tony