Canopy secure recommendations for transport as well as other questions ..long ez with O-320

[James Bailey]

I will be transporting the long ez project that I bought from California to Tennessee..look at the attached picture..the builder didn’t cut in the door to allow the canopy latch to be operated from the outside that would have kept the canopy closed during the trip..so I am looking for recommendations..could be as simple as I cut out where the door would go..I would rather save that until I get it home and figure out exactly what direction I would want to go..if memory serves me correctly years ago, someone had like a coke machine key/hole on the outside as opposed to the lockable door..not sure if someone even sells either solution these days

also recommendations on securing blankets to the wings I.e. lower winglet and up by the mounting bolt locations..I am guessing those two areas would hold it off if the trailer floor during transport..I was thinking gorilla tape or duct tape..those may be too harsh on the paint and finish..but might be the only option

 

next thing..the box to place under one of the mains to tilt the spar to be road legal..the question is..at that angle does it put too much side load on the tires? Or is there a specific way to secure…on strapping the fuselage down along the spar area…preferred attach points as to not cause damage  to the fuselage and the wing attach bolt holes

 

i appreciate all suggestions and guidance 

[Kent Ashton]

You might remove the latch hardware and tape the canopy closed.   BTW, that door can be a big leak source so do a good job there.

Yeah blankets would work or how about foam cushions from old furniture? (lots of that on Craigslist).  Main thing is that parts don't rub as you travel or there is protection at rub spots.

The center spar is 9'-5" (plans p. 14-6).  The national wide load limit is typically 8'-6" but varies by state.     https://oversize.io/regulations     I bet if you attach some flags or streamers to the ends of the spar, no would would stop you.  It is only about 6-1/2" too-wide per side.   I like that better than trying to prop one wheel on a box. 

[James Bailey]

Thanks Kent,

I wasn't  sure how bad duct type tape would be on the fill and paint..i had planned on some harbor freight blankets for padding and probably some pool noodles on the straps..I hope to transport it sitting on its mains and the nose retracted..if possible 

 

I spoke with jack wilhelmson earlier today about his canopy latch system ..that will eliminate the door and leaks..I will be getting that system ordered but won’t have it in time before going to get it..I will see about picking up a cushion or two to put under the nose ..

 

[Marc Zeitlin]

9 minutes ago, James Bailey said:

I wasn't  sure how bad duct type tape would be on the fill and paint....

Duct tape sucks - do NOT put it anywhere on a plane if it's going to be there for more than 15 minutes, especially if the plane's going to be in the sun. Use heavy duty masking tape or electrical tape with acrylic adhesive. You'll be very sorry if you use duct tape - you'll spend an infinite amount of time with some sort of solvent trying to get the adhesive off of your paint.

11 minutes ago, James Bailey said:

I spoke with jack wilhelmson earlier today about his canopy latch system ..that will eliminate the door and leaks..

Not a fan. I've worked on multiple planes with that system and it's extremely finicky (sometimes trying to open the canopy in flight, which is obviously sub-optimal) and does NOT have an over-center latch. Nor, in fact, anything that ensures that it cannot vibrate open. No thanks.

You don't need any latch just for moving the plane on a trailer. Worry about the canopy after you've got the plane home.

[James Bailey]

Thank you Marc

 

i appreciate your insight and experience with the latch system..and the tape during cross country ground transport…once I get it home and start the refurbishment..do you have any recommendations on a system that would allow me to lock the canopy when it’s sitting outside for short period..i.e. landing at a not home airport and going to lunch ..or at Oshkosh for the week..etc..…at home it will be hangared and not an issue 

[Marc Zeitlin]

1 hour ago, James Bailey said:

...do you have any recommendations on a system that would allow me to lock the canopy ...

There are a number of ways to skin that cat. MY plane has a cam-lock:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/key-locks/circular-keyway-cam-locks-12/

that just rotates and blocks the bolt through standard latch part C3 (see page 18-10 of the plans) from moving aft when the lock is rotated up. I don't have a picture, but you can imagine something that is out of the way normally, but blocks the latch handle from moving aft when rotated into the "lock" position.

In any case, when I'm locking the canopy, I open the latches, lower the canopy so that the three latches engage the screws, but I do NOT (and can't, actually) push the canopy down hard enough so that CS-13 and the screw head pop through the 9/16" hole in C9. This way, the canopy CANNOT lock from the inside, and all I need to do is rotate the external lock 180 degrees and then pull the canopy up.

The safety catch DOES engage, but that's accessible once the canopy is raised an inch or two.

As I said, there are many ways of accomplishing this - this was just the simplest way I could think of. You just have to make damn sure that there's no way to push the canopy down hard enough to get the screw head and CS-13 to pop through the 9/16" hole. My foam seal on the canopy is stiff enough to ensure that can't happen.